A DIY brake change is a decision usually motivated by saving money. Some are apprehensive about attempting a significant repair on their vehicle such as changing their brakes.
Using a local auto repair shop to replace your disc brakes can be pricey. Dealerships and auto repair shops put a premium on their parts and they charge for labor making the entire process quite expensive for you.
Having owned my auto repair shop for 20 years, I built up a reputation over time as being the do-it-yourselfer's helpful mechanic. When people would come in to price something like a brake job, some would be disappointed because they couldn't afford it. I would provide them with guidance, tips, techniques, and some support to do the job on their own. I got a sense of what people were capable of and what they could manage to do on their own with a little guidance.
Replacing your disc brakes can be a simple process and a way to save hundreds of dollars. It’s also possible it could be a big boost to your self-pride. Any person with a little mechanical ability and just a few basic tools can easily do the job.
To help you become more confident in your ability to perform a DIY brake change, let’s look at the anatomy of disc brakes. There aren’t many parts involved and as long as you remember these and where they go, you’ve got it made.
A good manual specific to your year, make and model of vehicle can help a lot in remembering all the parts where they go. We have written a resource guide to help you find the right manual for your car - check it out here.
The only parts that are typically involved are:
Depending on the caliper fluid leakage or disc wear involved you may need:
Access to some of the basic tools will be required, like:
We will get into the specifics later in this article regarding the necessary tools and a complete step-by-step.
And finally, the Good News: Instead of paying an auto repair shop to do your brake job, you can perform a DIY brake change for ⅓ or even ¼ of the retail shop cost. Plus you can be very proud that you were able to do it yourself and save a good chunk of cash.
Who knows, you may decide to take a vocational education auto-tech or online auto repair or maintenance course and turn some backyard auto repair jobs into a very profitable career. We’ve assembled a helpful resource guide to assist you in finding some courses to get you started.
We recommend using brake cleaner during your DIY brake change. Years ago there was really only one type of brake cleaner. While there were many brands, they were all that is referred to as chlorinated brake cleaners. Today, many states have banned the use of chlorinated brake cleaners. In those states, non-chlorinated brake cleaners are the alternative option.
The original, chlorinated brake cleaners are tough on build-up and grime and do a terrific job of cleaning brake parts thoroughly. These cleaners are generally cheaper than their environmentally safer counterparts. Non-chlorinated brake cleaners are much safer for the environment, workers, family, and pets. Many are nearly as powerful cleaners as the chlorinated versions.
Non-chlorinated brake cleaners are much easier on plastics and paint. You must take care around plastic, rubber, and paint vehicle parts when using the chlorinated brake cleaners.
If you choose to use the chlorinated brake cleaner it is vital that you do so with the utmost safety in mind. Wearing goggles, using a shop fan to blow fumes away from you, and wearing a NIOSH respirator facemask are all highly recommended when using these products. NIOSH is the US National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health.
Our DIY brake change resource guide includes recommendations for both chlorinated and non-chlorinated brake cleaners for you to choose from. Be sure to check state and local laws and ordinances to confirm whether yours allows the chlorinated brake cleaners.
The amount that an auto repair shop will charge to change your brakes depends on a lot of things. For example, the vehicle type, make, model, age, domestic or import, and even where you live all play into factoring the cost.
Every state in the US has shop labor rates that vary from California to Vermont. Another cost consideration is whether the vehicle has disc or drum brakes. If the rotors or drums are scored or worn to a degree that resurfacing is not possible to be within safe limits, then a replacement will be required and will add to the cost.
Disc calipers or drum wheel cylinders that are leaking, binding or rusted will need to be replaced. Brake hoses or lines should be inspected for cracks or rust issues and replaced if necessary as well.
Depending on the year, make and model of the vehicle, whether its a car, truck or performance car, and how it's driven a brake job can cost between $150 to $1,200 or more
Brake components come in a variety of quality grades. Currently, most new vehicles will be equipped with at least semi-metallic friction linings. The next upgrade would normally be to a ceramic type of linings or if any kind of racing is being considered then a full-metallic lining would be advised.
A DIY brake change on a daily driver will in most cases cost less than on a performance vehicle. The reason is due to the higher cost of parts and will depend on how the vehicle is driven. A performance or sports car will need to be equipped with higher quality pads or shoes and other hardware than the daily driver.
Pickup trucks, commercial trucks, and RV’s will all have different quality parts and cost levels.
All this being said, a brake job on either disc or drum type can start at anywhere from $150 and go up to $1200, or more, based on the extent of parts and labor. In some parts of the US, you may also expect to add an additional 10% to 15% to the bottom line because of geographical cost tax and labor variations. All the more reason, in these days of escalating cost-of-living and where average wages are not rising to keep pace, any vehicle owner can and should explore DIY options.
This is a safety question and is very important as it could affect the owner and passengers. This is a question that every performance vehicle owner should keep in mind.
The performance vehicles of today including the Chrysler Hemi cars, Camaros, and Mustangs with the higher horsepower, large displacement, and turbocharged motors require matching brake capacity. These brakes are usually equipped with large rotors, dual-piston calipers, and specialized lining material.
Your vehicle’s brake system is designed with brake pads and shoes that are rated for 50,000 to 70,000 miles. Brake pads or shoes normally can last 3 to 4 years, depending on driving habits.
A thorough inspection is advised to be done at the same time as an oil change, (6-months or 6,000 miles - whichever comes first).
Performance brake systems are like anything else mechanical and can be subject to random failure. The driver has to be alert to any changes such as the obvious, brake instrument light indicator, as well as:
All vehicles are different when it comes to the brake parts used and their safety recommendations for when to change those parts.
Most modern vehicles have disc brakes on both front and rear axles. Older cars will have drum brakes on the rear and disc brakes on the front.
Your front brakes are responsible for 60% of the stopping power of your vehicle. Depending on the vehicle and how it is driven, it is wise to check your brakes for wear. For example, a high-performance vehicle driven fast with quick braking might wear the front brakes more quickly than a daily driver used to commute to and from work.
Another example could be a truck used to tow a trailer for yard mowing equipment - in this case, you might be starting and stopping a lot. Though truck brakes are more heavy-duty, it is wise to check the brakes for wear and safety.
Later in this article, we list several tools to help you with your DIY brake change project. Some of these tools can help you measure the thickness of your brakes and linings to determine whether they are within safe limits to continue using them or if they should be changed.
Brake drums use brake shoes to stop. These are typically found on the rear axle of older vehicles. It is best to use an auto repair or maintenance manual specific to your year, make, and model of vehicle to determine the manufacturer's recommendations for the safe thickness of your brake drums and brake shoes.
You will want to inspect your drums for cracks, warping, or any other damage to ensure the safety of their continued use. Brake shoes are generally in the region of 8mm to 12mm thickness when new. Most mechanics recommend changing them at no less than 4mm for safety. Again, refer to an auto maintenance manual for your specific vehicle for exact parameters.
Disc brakes use rotors and brake pads to stop your vehicle. Disc brakes are generally found on all four wheels on modern models.
New brake pads are ½ inch and should be changed at no less than ¼ inch. Consult your vehicle’s repair and maintenance manual for specifics on safe thickness for your rotors. If you do have rotors needing to be replaced due to thinness, damage, or warping, it is advised you change all four at the same time if your car or truck has disc brakes on both axles - all four wheels.
The type of replacement brake parts that are used in your brake job, can and will make a major difference in the life of your next brake job. There are many different grades of each of the main brake components and need to be matched to the specific car, car usage, and driver considerations. This can make it a bit confusing when selecting the correct parts.
These factors will be discussed in the DIY Brake Change Step-by-step.
Having the right tools for your DIY brake change project can be the key to getting the job done quicker and easier, as well as driving a safe vehicle. Often we can spend a lot of extra time if we don’t have the right tools to do the job.
We have spent a lot of time working with and talking to auto shop owners, drag racing, and classic car hobby enthusiasts to keep current on new tools and parts designed to improve braking systems.
Most of the tools we’ll be referring to here have multiple uses in any number of do-it-yourself projects you will encounter in the future. Some of the other tools will be used specifically for your DIY brake change work.
Some of these tools you may already own, and others will be a great long-term investment whether for your personal use or perhaps to generate future income from operating a for-profit auto repair business.
Many of us made the transition from doing our own auto repairs to operating a successful repair shop because we were very particular about how our auto repairs were performed.
Choosing the right tools for your DIY brake change is important for safety and ease of completion.
Take a look at our list:
Having the specific service and repair manual for your vehicle will go a long way toward making your DIY brake change easy and effective. We have provided a Resource Guide to help you find the auto repair and service manual for your vehicle. Our Resource Guide will also help you to find all the other tools and supplies on this list so you can be ready to handle your DIY brake change job.
Although the worksite you choose is not really a tool, it can be one of the most important decisions you make when it comes to your safety. Before jacking up the vehicle, you will need to have a flat, level, and solid paved area or cement garage floor for your work.
Also, be sure to check your state and local laws about performing repairs or maintenance on your vehicle. Many states and municipalities have specific laws regarding do-it-yourself auto repairs and where and how you can conduct them.
A quality, low-profile type floor jack rated at a minimum of the total weight of your vehicle is a must for your DIY brake change and other projects. Never use a factory-supplied bumper jack or a scissor jack when working under your vehicle. A 3-ton floor jack is a wise investment as it gives you a wide range of cars and trucks you can work on.
Jack stands are required safety measures for your DIY brake change and other projects. These ensure the vehicle cannot fall or be lowered while someone is working under the vehicle. Floor jacks can accidentally be lowered and without jack stands this could be disastrous.
Each jack stand will need to be rated to support at least as much weight rating as the floor jack: i.e. for a 3-ton floor jack you will need (2) 3-ton jack stands. This will also give you the option of working on trucks or other heavy vehicles.
Wheel chocks are solid blocks that are pressed up against the wheels remaining on the ground as a safety measure to ensure the vehicle cannot roll. When these are used in conjunction with jack stands, you are incorporating best practices to keep yourself safe during your DIY brake change project.
A set of combination box and open-end wrenches, in both SAE ¼ thru 1-inch, and Metric 6mm through 19mm is essential.
SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers, and they established a set of standards for automotive tools and measures.
Your DIY brake change job and other DIY projects will require a quality socket set. A socket set in ¼, ⅜, and ½ inch drive with equivalent ratchets and extensions, with both 6 and 12-point sockets
A flare nut wrench set in either SAE ¼ through ⅞ inch or metric 9mm through 21mm based on whether you are working on an older (SAE) or newer (metric) vehicle. It’s always a good idea to have both sets so you are covered no matter what type of vehicle you are working on.
A hex key set in SAE and Metric and Torx drive adapters in ⅜ inch drive. Getting both sets is a good idea to ensure you have the right tools no matter what vehicle you might be working on. These tools are also good for assembling packaged furniture.
A ½ inch drive, click-type torque wrench with a range of 10 to 150-foot pounds.
A DIY brake change, like other DIY projects, is typically a one-person job.
One-man brake bleeder kit with a vacuum pump. Flushing and bleeding your brakes is an important step when changing your brakes or changing out your brake fluid. A vacuum pump with a one-man bleeder kit will make the process much more simple.
Lighting is essential when working on your car. There are so many cramped and dark places under the car and under the hood. Without the proper lighting, it is very difficult to see and this can be a drain of energy and time during your project.
A mechanic’s creeper is used to allow you to easily roll around the car and your work area when doing any type of work on the vehicle.
We recommend a couple of versions of the creeper: flat laying and upright seat. The upright seat is necessary when you have a car jacked up for a DIY brake change job as it allows you to sit comfortably and work on the wheel.
The flat laying version allows you to easily scoot under your vehicle when working on the exhaust, oil change, and much more.
For your DIY brake change, you will need a 1-quart bottle of brake fluid. Refer to your vehicle’s owner or auto maintenance manual to determine whether you need DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid.
A bottle of new, unopened brake fluid will last for about 2 years. It’s best to use your brake fluid immediately after opening.
A fluid drain or drip pan is necessary to catch fluids when performing a DIY brake change, changing your oil, or working with other fluid-based systems on your vehicle.
There are many variations available in both plastic or galvanized.
Brake cleaner is used to clean all the brake parts such as the brake discs when performing your DIY brake change. It is designed to leave no residue after it dries. Brake cleaner typically comes in an aerosol spray can. It can be used to clean other parts of your vehicle as well.
It’s always handy to have shop paper towels around. Shop paper towels are a lot more absorbent than plain paper towels. You will use nearly 10 sheets of ordinary paper towels to one sheet of shop towels.
Safety goggles are necessary to protect your eyes from brake dust, fluids, and various other particles and pieces that are inherent with your DIY brake change or performing other maintenance or repair work on your vehicles.
These gloves last 4 times longer than standard work gloves made of leather. They also protect you from the fluids and protect the components you will be handling during your DIY brake change. Gloves are simply an important part of your safety protocol and in protecting the parts you will be handling.
While this is optional, I like having it around to help prevent corrosion on various fasteners and bolts in the assembly process for easier disassembly the next time I execute a DIY brake change. Of course, this can be used on other components with other repair projects as well. You want to use caution as to where you use it, though.
A caliper tool can be used to measure your drums, disc rotor, and brake pads, and shoes for thickness to ensure they meet the minimum requirements in your service repair and maintenance manual for your specific vehicle.
These kits have everything you need to adjust calipers and ensure you have the right parts and tools for your DIY brake change. This will help you service your vehicle quickly and with ease.
Several times in the next section we will be recommending that you refer to your service manual on how tight you should tighten certain nuts and bolts during your DIY brake change. Generally, these manuals will tell you to tighten a nut or bolt based on foot-pounds of torque.
Earlier, we recommended a torque wrench as part of the tools you might want to have on hand when performing your brake change project. A torque wrench will actually help you with this.
This tool allows you "dial in" the foot-pounds of torque recommended for a specific nut or bolt assembly. As you tighten the nut or bolt with the torque wrench, it will click and stop the tightening process once it has reached the dialed-in setting you configured.
A DIY brake change of your vehicle's disc brake pads is a very easy and quick job that you will be able to do with no previous experience.
The actual work starts days prior to getting your vehicle up on jack stands. Notice while driving the vehicle with the windows down and A/C off, if you are getting any metallic grinding or squealing noises as well as any pulling either left or right from the steering wheel. Is there a pulsation feel when applying the brake pedal or is there a brake fade (longer than normal stopping distance) or a soft pedal? These are all signs that you will need brake work, to keep your vehicle safe.
Servicing brakes on any vehicle will be somewhat similar and share much the same instructions. You will need to check your service manual for specific fastener torque requirements. Parts will need to be ordered for your specific car.
Safety is the primary concern for your DIY brake change and when working with a vehicle for any repair, maintenance, or restoration project. Put on your safety goggles and work gloves. Find your jack stands and wheel chocks and have them ready.
Begin your work by choosing a level, flat and smooth cement or asphalt work site. Since we are going to begin with the front end of the vehicle, apply your emergency brake and place your wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
Next, loosen the master cylinder cap but leave it on. With a long ½ inch drive breaker bar and the correct sized (consult your service manual) deep 6 point socket, loosen the wheel nuts on both sides but leave them on and snug.
Place your floor jack under the front end of the vehicle and ensure you have it under the frame. If you accidentally place the jack under the body, oil pan, or other components, you could do serious damage to your vehicle. So you need to be sure when you are ready to jack the front end up, you are doing so under the frame of the car.
Now that you have confirmed you have the floor jack under the frame, raise the front end and place both jack stands under the frame on both sides of the vehicle.
Be sure to leave your floor jack under the frame with light contact pressure as an extra safety factor. Before you remove the wheels, try spinning them to establish that they turn freely. If they don’t this may indicate a caliper that is not sliding free in the mounting bracket or that a caliper piston is rusted and not retracting. Keep a mental note of this if this happens to be the case.
At this point, you will want to have your vehicle’s service manual handy for your DIY brake change. In these next several steps we will be using various tools where your vehicle will have specific size requirements and your manual will tell you the exact sockets and wrench sizes each part requires. Check out our Resource Guide to find the service manual for your vehicle’s year, make and model.
Now, with the breaker bar and the correct socket (check your service manual) remove all the wheel nuts on the front wheels on both sides. Turn the wheels so as to bring the caliper closer for easier access then remove the bleeder valve cap.
Next, loosen the bleeder valve with the correct sized (refer to your service manual) 6 point wrench and install the one-man bleeder kit hose and bottle. This is done to help relieve the pressure of the caliper making it easier to remove the caliper body. This also helps ensure you don’t get brake fluid all over the parts and reduces the mess.
Open the valve and with a large screwdriver insert it into the inspection hole in the center of the caliper body, pry brake pads away from the rotor to retract the piston and facilitate easy removal of the caliper.
While this Advance Auto Parts video does not leverage the bleeder kit to assist with the removal of the caliper body and reduce the mess, it helps you to best understand the process.
Next break loose the (2) caliper slide pin bolts with the correct sized (auto repair service manual) 6 point 3/8 inch drive socket and ratchet and remove bolts then with a screwdriver pry the caliper up off from the rotor. With a bungee strap or wire, lift the caliper up out of the way. When moving the caliper body out of way be sure to not kink or stretch the brake line which could cause damage to it.
At this point, you will need to use your piston compression tool. This tool was recommended in our list of tools and supplies earlier in this article. You can find all of our recommended tools and supplies in the Resource Guide we have created to help you be successful in your do-it-yourself brake change and many other DIY auto repair and maintenance projects.
Use the piston compression tool to compress the piston fully then inspect the caliper piston boot for signs of leakage. Remove the pad spreader springs and gently tap the brake pads out of the caliper. Note that the wear indicator is installed on the inside.
Now, remove the pad slider hardware clips. Inspect the surface under the clips and clean any rust or scale with a wire brush if needed. Then use the recommended (refer to your repair manual for size) 6 point ½ inch drive socket and breaker bar to loosen the two caliper mounting bracket bolts and remove them.
The disc rotor can now be removed by first removing the small screws (this can be different depending on the vehicle you are working on) holding the rotor on with the proper bit (or large Phillips screwdriver) and if they don’t come out easily, you may need to use an impact driver, heat and use penetrant on them and tap with a screwdriver. They are simply used to align the rotor for easier wheel installation and are not needed when reinstalling.
Now slide the rotors off and if they don’t loosen you may need to tap with a rubber mallet. Now is a good time to inspect the rotors for signs of uneven wear and grooves, and check whether there are obvious issues. If you find issues, the rotors should be replaced.
If the rotors are not too thin, you can have them turned. This used to be a cost savings approach some years ago. However, nowadays It is usually not much of a difference in cost to replace the rotors versus having them turned by an auto parts store to clean up the contact surfaces.
Clean the new rotors with brake cleaner, and install them. Replace the caliper mounting bracket and be sure that the mating surfaces are cleaned up with a wire brush if needed. The bolts should be cleaned and a few drops of blue Loctite applied to the end of the head bolt and torqued to the proper foot-pounds.
Remove the caliper guide pins and boots, clean/inspect both, and lightly clean the pin bores with a small round wire brush, spray with brake cleaner. Apply silicone brake grease to the guide pin and reinstall boots then pins. Reinstall the caliper then Install the new brake pad slide hardware clips, and very lightly apply a film of high temp, 1600-degree anti-seize to the clip groove where the pad ears slide. Install the new pads with the wear indicator on the inside top. Now, install both anti-rattle springs.
Next, install the caliper body with pads over the rotor and install the (2) guide pin bolts with a few drops of blue Loctite on the end threads and torque to the proper foot-pounds as found in the service manual for your particular car.
Add brake fluid, of whatever spec your owner’s manual calls for and bleed the caliper until clear fluid and a firm brake pedal is observed.
Spray the rotors and pads on both sides with brake cleaner then reinstall wheel/tire. Lightly apply high temp anti-seize to wheel studs and snug the nuts, lower the car to ground and torque to the proper foot-pounds in an alternating pattern. Repeat the entire sequence on the other side then test drive.
When changing your back brakes, do not use your parking brake. You won’t be able to change your brakes on the rear if the parking or emergency brake is engaged.
All vehicles are unique and the process will be somewhat different between them. The repair and service manual. Our DIY brake change article has focused on disc brakes as most more modern vehicles use these for the front and many have these on both front and rear.
In addition, while we touched on drum brakes, we didn't go in-depth on the anatomy of them or how to change them. We will write about these in a future article. This will help those of you restoring older and classic cars that have drum brakes.
We hope this DIY brake change how-to has helped you gain the confidence and knowledge to change your own brakes on your vehicle.
Be sure to hit us up in the comments with your questions. We watch them and provide answers.
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